Gomboce, vanilice, kitnikez and green salad, baklava, podvarak with turkey, gruvanica, belmuž, zeljanik - all these old Serbian dishes from the north to the south of the country found their way onto the cover of Miodrag Ilić's book entitled "Traditional recipes of domestic Serbian cuisine". whose presentation, after Belgrade, was also organized in the Zrenjanin National Museum.
The promotion was followed by a rich meal, how else in the heart of Banat than with studs, pastries, salty and sweet diaconia. According to Ilic, the collaboration started successfully while he was collecting written material about dishes. The ethnology department of this institution allowed the author to see the oldest preserved edition on cooking, a book called "Cookbook of Forgotten Dishes" printed in 1914 in Veliki Bečkerek.
- I really encountered top-notch professionalism and high understanding, I have never found such a reception anywhere while searching for information about old dishes. Of all the museums in the country that I contacted, only two answered, and one of them is in Zrenjanin. That is why the book contains the most recipes from the north of the country and from central Serbia, while there are fewer from the south because there is less written evidence - explains Miodrag ilić.
In addition to this literature, Ilić used the work of anthropologist Sime Trojanović "Old Serbian dishes and drinks" from 1896, as well as the records of ethnologist Jovan Erdeljanović, which talk about the way of preparing forgotten dishes.
- I tried to include recipes from the oldest surviving cook, Jeroti Draganović, which is kept in Krušedol, but I did not find an adequate translation. The book also contains recipes from old, preserved cookbooks of my colleagues, and we tried everything, took pictures and showed it so that everyone could prepare it. All of this came from writing a cooking site, it was a logical sequence to permanently preserve the data and connect it to the historical context. Apart from that, there are few written books about food culture in our country. It is considered that traditional cuisine is the one that was prepared in a certain geographical region before the Second World War, with autochthonous ingredients. Why until that period, because then industrialization and the application of pesticides and chemicals in agriculture began - Ilić told Danas.
Professor from the Food Department of the Faculty of Pharmacy in Belgrade, Slađana Šobajić, a collaborator on the book, says that traditional ways of eating are in the focus of interest of both the scientific and professional public in many countries. All of Europe, according to her, is working to preserve culinary traditions, with scientifically defined standards.
- Culinary tradition is part of the intangible cultural heritage, and when it is taken care of, everything that is characteristic of certain nations is preserved. In times of globalization, we all eat almost the same things, and in that transition to the same foods, we slowly forget the old foods that we used to use every day. I don't know if people today know what sremush is, if they know other salads that our ancestors used. These are not only salads, but also foods with medicinal properties. Thus, in Serbia, basil and mint were considered spices that both healed and nourished at the same time. We are now trying to revive foods that have sources of nutrients - explains Dr. Slađana Šobajić.
Collaborators in this project - Dragana Ilić, blogger Kristina Gašpar, Bojan Marinkov and professional chef Dejan Ilić - participated in the promotion of Miodrag Ilić's book.
Source: danas.rs, author Miroslava Pudar
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